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NOTE:  These instructions will eventually be under My Projects.

I have some of these pictures and descriptions up in the files section of the Designer 1 group at Yahoo Groups.  I had several write to me to say that they would like more instructions on how to do the pillowcase.  First, I have the pictures and the descriptions as they are on the D1 site.  Below those are some more detailed instructions.


Click each picture for a larger view.

This close-up shows the cutwork done along with the eyelets. I used the same thread in the bobbin as I did on the top. I starched/sized the fabric so it was easier to work with. I used a Viking Card 65 design for the front.

I edited the design and took out all but the scallop edge and the alignment stitches. This is a close view of the stitching. I did 3 groups for both the front and the back.

A close view of the stitches. This design is done so that you can either stitch it "as is" on fabric or you can use a wash away stabilizer like I did. There are stops in the design so you can punch the holes for the eyelets and then another stop so you can trim the fabric edge.

Front of linen pillowcase done in Endless Hoop & Spanish Hemstitch Foot. I had to take the fabric out of the hoop to cut away the fabric for the edges.

This shot shows how I stitched the edges together. This was one long piece of fabric done in the Endless Hoop. The top edge of the picture shows the seam. The picture also shows how nice both the front and the back look using the same thread. I like how the edges finish off in this design. No fabric poking out because it finishes it nice & smooth. My linen fabric is stiff right now because I put sizing on it to iron but after it is washed a couple of times it will all be nice & soft.


General directions

I made my pillowcase with a medium-weight 100% linen fabric.  It is a bit limp for stitching if you don't starch/size it.  I decided the size I wanted for my standard pillowcase which is normally 20 x 30 inches.  It is easier to keep straight for the edges if you starch the fabric first.  I made my case 19 inches wide for the final width so I cut my fabric the 40 inches (20 inches folded over) and trimmed away the extra when I made the French seam. 

The embroidered hem on my case is separated from the rest of the case.  I wanted the hem to be 5 inches wide when finished so I cut my fabric for the case to be 26 inches.  This gave me plenty of extra to cut away when I did my final seams. 

So my cut fabric was 40 inches wide and 26 inches long.

I cut a long strip of fabric for my hem area that was 8 inches wide.  I just used the entire width of my linen fabric since it was about 42-44 inches wide.  This gave me plenty of fabric to use for both the hooping and the side seam of the embroidered hem piece when I was done with the embroidery.

Since I wanted my seams to have a neat finish, I used French seams.  These are basically just encasing the raw edges.  I made my measurements a little bigger to accommodate those French seams.

I used the new Viking Endless Hoop to stitch the designs for this pillowcase on the hem area.  I used design #8 on the Delicate & Dainty embroidery disk #65 by Viking.  These designs are digitized by Margit Grimm.  It was made specifically for the Endless Hoop and they include their form of alignment stitches.

You must have your Viking Designer 1 updated to the latest update to make sure that it recognizes the Endless Hoop.  You could do serious damage to your embroidery arm if you try to use the Endless Hoop with out the update to the machine.

When I stitched a couple of these design sections out, I realized that it was taking longer than I wanted to spend on this project so I edited the embroidery design.  I made it so that the front edge had all the beautiful eyelet stitches and complete design along with the scalloped edge.  The back edge of the case is my edited embroidery design that has the same scalloped edge only.  I continued on with the stitching making the scalloped edge join with the "regular" part of the design.

When you trim for the cutwork, do NOT cut away the extra fabric or you will leave holes in your fabric!  The picture below shows how much to trim away and the edge of the embroidery.  It is much easier to cut away any extra fabric than it is to try to cover up a hole in the fabric from trimming to much.

This shows my sample stitchout after the satin edge was completed.


1.  For the embroidered hem edge, cut out a long strip of the linen fabric 8 inches wide.  I made it longer than the finished edge so there was some room to make adjustments if necessary.  Lightly starch and press fabric several times with light applications of Niagara brand sizing.  It is better to do a few light applications than to do one heavy soaking. 

2.  After the fabric is completely dry from the ironing, cut out a long piece of Badgemaster water soluble stabilizer for hooping that is 8 inches wide.  Make the stabilizer the same size as the long fabric strip.  Be sure that the right edge of both the fabric and the stabilizer are straight. 

3.  Since the right edge of this fabric will be cut away in places for this design, adjust the design so that it is the closest to the right edge of the hoop.  Here's how:

a.  Select the design from menu. 

b.  Select hoop size on screen and choose "170 x 100 optional accessory".  This will show the correct hoop size. 

c.  Click on the "More" button. 

d.  Use the "move design button" pointing to the right to move the design to almost the far right edge.  I didn't make it go the entire distance in case I needed to move my design slightly later.  Be sure to write down the position noted on this screen.  I moved my design horizontally (left/right arrows) a distance of 35.0 mm to the right.  I left the vertical position (up/down arrows) at zero.  So my note had 35.0 with left/right arrows and 0.0 with up/down arrows.  I usually just write these notations on the paper that lists the colors used for my design if I have one printed off.  The notation helps in case your project is interrupted for some reason.

4.  Put the fabric on top of the Badgemaster with some of the fabric and stabilizer extending above the top of the hoop.  Clamp the hoop down making sure the fabric and straight edge of the Badgemaster are aligned with the edge of the moveable guide on the right edge of the hoop area. 

A bit hard to see with the white fabric.

5.  Click on the Fix button on the machine and start to stitch the baste stitches around the design.  Make sure it does all the very first stitches.  My machine doesn't always like to stitch out the first stitch or two but make sure it does these first stitches also by checking that your bobbin thread is pulled out enough when you start to stitch.  Don't do the entire basting area - just the left edge and then 2 or 3 stitches along the bottom.  Since the right edge will be trimmed in the design, the basting stitches should NOT be stitched all the way around the design.  This basting edge on the left and 2 or 3 on the bottom will help with alignment.  Leave them in for the entire project until you are done stitching. 

6.  Click the Fix button again to stop the baste function and click the stitch advance button (+).  This will put you right at the first stitch of the design again.

7.  Use top and bobbin thread that are the same color.  I used 40 wt. rayon thread.  Stitch out the first color of the design.  It has a color stop for you to cut out the eyelet holes.  Take hoop off the machine with the fabric still inside the hoop but DO NOT take the fabric out of the hoop or loosen the hoop at all.  Cut the eyelets out with a cutter without disturbing your hooping of the fabric.

8.  Put the hoop back on the machine.  Use a light-weight water soluble stabilizer (regular Sulky Solvy) scrap to cover the eyelet holes.  It helps the stitches to form better for the eyelets.

9.  Stitch until the next stop.  This stop is for the cutwork edge.  Be sure to see your booklet that comes with the designs to show you the exact sequence for eyelet and trimming sequence.

  Here are the tools I used for the eyelets and trim work.

10.  Take fabric out of the hoop to trim away the fabric for the cutwork edge.  I used my Gingher duck bill (appliqué) scissors to trim close to the stitching.  These are VERY sharp and do a great job of getting very close.  You do NOT want to trim through the Badgemaster - only the top fabric.  If you trim a little close to the threads and shave them a tiny amount, that is OK!

11.  Put the fabric with stabilizer back on the hoop but don't clamp it down tight yet. 

a.  Line up the Badgemaster with the moveable guide on the right side of the hoop.

b.  Then push the Fix button on the machine again just like you were going to baste again. 

c.  Push the stitch advance button (+) and the needle will jump up to the top of the basting stitches. 

d.  Lower your needle down into the fabric.  If your first basting stitch isn't where the needle is lowered, raise the needle back up, raise the top part of the hoop enough so that you can move the fabric and stabilizer to the point where the needle lowers into the first basting stitch.

12.  Lower the top hoop down onto the fabric without clamping it down all the way and make sure that everything is flat and smooth.  Lower the needle into the fabric to make sure it is all still in the correct position.  Then raise the needle back up slightly.  Use the stitch advance button (+) a few times and make sure that the needle follows the basting stitches on the fabric.  You can go all the way down the stitches you added at the beginning to make sure it is all straight.

13.  If everything is all straight, then clamp the hoop the rest of the way down by turning the purple lever of the hoop all the way to the right (about the 1 o'clock position).  Check the stitches again just to make sure that there was no movement when you clamped - it CAN move!  Adjust again if there was any movement.  It is very important that you have this just right or the satin edge won't stitch properly.

14.  Now finish the satin edge of the cutwork.  When done with that section, be sure to keep the alignment stitches that stitch at the end of the design in tact so you can use if for the next section.  Try not to clip them away.  They are only a basting type of stitch but you need to try to keep those in there.

15.  Move the fabric and stabilizer upward in the hoop.  Be sure to line up on the right edge with the moveable guide.  Don't clamp the fabric down all the way yet - just lower the top hoop down to hold the fabric in place.

16.  Push the stitch advance button on the machine (+) to get to the first alignment basting stitch.  This should line up with the last alignment basting stitch from the last section.  If it isn't right on the spot, raise the top hoop and move the fabric into the correct position.  Line up with the right edge of the moveable guide. 

17.  After you have everything all situated properly, clamp the hoop by pushing the lever to the 1:00 o'clock position again.  Check your alignment once more to make sure there was no movement from the clamping.

18.  Push the Fix button on the machine and baste the left edge and 2 or 3 of the bottom edge basting stitches as you did before.  Then click the Fix button again to go back to the rest of the design.  Stitch out the first part of the design until you get to the eyelet stop.  Take the hoop off the machine and cut out the holes for the eyelets as you did before.

The rest of the steps are the same as above.  Just continue on with as many sections as you want for your hem edge.  I did 3 of the "regular" design sections for the front and 3 of the edited design sections for the back.  These are exactly the same length.

Take out any basting stitches.  Trim away the extra water soluble stabilizer and soak out the remainder.  Press.  You may need to add more starch/sizing.

Finishing up

1.  Make a French seam for the edge of the hem section.  Carefully measure the opening for the embroidered hem piece and make the case opening the same measurement.

2.  You will probably need to trim off some of the hem edge so that it will be 5 inches wide including the embroidery and the turned up edge explained below.  

3.  The hem piece and the case both have a raw edge at this point.  Fold up at least 3/8 inch and then fold over again so that the raw edge is inside the fold and to the back.  Press.  I made mine a bit more generous.  Do this for both the case edge and the hem edge. 

4.  Use the Spanish Hemstitch foot/plate. 

I used a 30 weight thread that closely matched my embroidery thread color and stitched around the edge of the case and the hem.  I used one of the decorative stitches in the E menu for my "bridging" stitches.  Using some scraps, test and adjust the length to suit your project.  I made the stitches the widest they would go using the adjustments on the machine.  Stitch all the way around the case joining the case and the hem together.

5.  Rethread machine with a white cotton thread (top and bobbin) to match fabric.  Use the regular stitch place and a 1/4 inch foot.  Carefully stitch down the rest of the hems that you double folded.  Stitch along both edges of the hemstitching approximately 1/4 inch from the 30 weight thread to finish off and encase the hems.  I just used a regular straight stitch.  They are really hard to see in the pictures!

6.  A final press and you are done with your project! 

Be sure to send me pictures of your completed project.  I would love to see them.

Updated August 2, 2004

These instructions were written as a general suggestion for the project I made.  Your project should reflect your taste in fabrics, threads and colors to make it your individual masterpiece.  Happy stitching!


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